Tour of Franconia - Classical Germany

Ride Report

2019 is a Paris Brest Paris year, and Ciclismo Classico offered a tour that started in Germany the Saturday after the PBP. Why not sign up for both?  Click here for the PBP ride report. After the PBP we toured Ambois, France and Heidelburg, Germany as we made our way to the start town of Bayreuth, Germany. This was our 6th tour with Ciclismo Classico and normally we would book a pre-night at the tour hotel before the tour. No luck this time, Bayreuth hosts a month-long opera celebration, and the tour hotel is in the city center next to an opera house was sold out months in advance! No worries, we booked a room at the Arvena Kongress hotel. It's walking distance to the city center, and had a great car park.

We check in and the room has plenty of space to put Debby's bike together (mine was still assembled from the PBP), so we get to work and put it together before heading out for a walk to check out the city and find dinner.

We find a great restaurant with outdoor seating and enjoy the first of many fantastic Franconian meals. It turns out this is where we will have lunch tomorrow at the start of the tour!

Fantastic Franconian dish, sauerbraten, cabbage and dumpling

We are almost done with our dinner and spot our guides Enrico and Umberto walking down the street. We have a table for four so we flag them down and they join us to start their dinner as we finish ours. Enrico guided our Ride Across Southern Italy in 2016 and the Ride Across England tour in 2018! It was great to catch up with Enrico and meet Umberto before the tour officially began!

You don't see that warning in most hotels!

Time to call it a day, we head back to the hotel and notice the bat warning posted in the elevator. The hotel had great air conditioning, so we didn't even think of opening the windows!

Day 1 Bayreuth

The tour started at 12:30 at the Anker Hotel. Since the Avis rental car agency closed at 11am, the plan was to grab breakfast, pack up Debby's bike and our luggage and use the car to drop her off at the Hotel Anker. I would circle back to check-out, pack my bike (assembled, both would not fit in our Opel hatchback with our luggage), and turn in the car before 11.

After breakfast, off we go. Our room was not ready at the Anker, but the bellman cheerfully stored Debby's bike and our bags. The lobby bar had great sidewalk seating so Debby could enjoy a coffee and read a book while I returned to the Arvena Kongress to check out, grab my bike, and return the car. The Avis office was only a few miles from the Hotel. I returned the vehicle to the small Avis office with a helpful and friendly agent. He was very interested in learning about our bike trip plans, and was especially interested in my Calfee bicycle's titanium travel couplers. I'll just say it's too bad this guy was not in Rambouillet when we needed Avis help before the PBP!

Hotel Anker

It was a short ride to the hotel, and our room was not ready, so the helpful bellman stored my bike and I joined Deb on the sidewalk/patio to wait until the tour started. At about 12:30 Enrico and Umberto, with the other two guests, Don and Ken, in tow, stroll by and we head to lunch.

Enrico and Umberto map out the trip at lunch

We introduced ourselves at lunch and Enrico explained the route using a Radweg (bike path) map of the Franconia region. He noted that most of the route would be on dedicated/protected bike paths, with some packed gravel sections, and only a few places where we would share the road with vehicles. He also noted that this tour was scheduled to have 9 guests, but a group of 5 cancelled at the last minute. Ours would be more like a semi-private tour, and as Enrico said, we would be traveling more like a family than an organized tour. He was right and it was great!

Little apple doughnuts and other Franconian dessert treats!

Lunch was fantastic and we headed back to the hotel. Our room was ready and the bags were delivered, so we slipped into our cycling kits and headed to the garage for the shake-down ride.

Our trusty steeds for the next 6 days!

Don and Ken follow Umberto

Yours truly, Debby and Enrico

It was such a short route, and with no need for the support van, both Enrico and Umberto saddled up for the ride. We rolled out of the hotel and headed to a park that followed a stream that got us out of town with very little traffic. Soon we were on back roads rolling through farms and gardens. A few steep sections and some gravel here and there to test the bikes, and the riders.

Back into town at the end of the ride

Only 8 miles on this route and soon we were back in town rolling past the opera house and into the hotel. Success! All the bikes, and riders, passed the test and were ready to go! We had some time to relax and wander around town before a great dinner with more local Franconian favorites at a restaurant next to the hotel. (Click here for GPS data)

Day 2 Bad Staffelstein

Enrico gives the morning brief

The daily routine on a Ciclismo Classico tour is fairly consistent. Breakfast starts at 7 or 7:30 (depending on the hotel), bags in the lobby by 8:30 and meet at the bikes for the morning brief, and usually roll out about 9. The day's route is loaded into our Garmin cycling computers and we each get a route map and elevation profile that outlines the regroup, lunch stop, and other points of interest!

Route map

Ride profile

Today's route will take us through rolling countryside on mostly flat roads and bike trails. Bad Staffelstein is a spa town and our hotel is adjacent to the springs. Throw in a beer garden for lunch, and we'd better get going!

Rolling through a cool forest on a gravel road

Packed gravel through the forest

The route follows the bike paths out of town and soon we enter alternating sections of farmland and forests. Some forest paths are hard packed gravel, easy to ride, and in the early morning are cool and delightful.

Rolling into the first regroup at Thurnau

Fountain in Thurnau

The first regroup in the village of Thurnau. Some great buildings, a beautiful fountain, and a modern WC tucked into a shady spot make this a perfect morning stop to refresh and refill the bottles. If it had been later in the day, when it was quite hot on the road, we probably would have climbed into the fountain to cool off!

Beer Garden in Weismain

The family has some lunch!

Riding through the country, especially on a Sunday, often means the lunch options can be limited. The Obendorfer Beer Garden was perfectly situated about half-way to Bad Staffelstein, and was open. No English menus here, so we broke out the Google Translate app, and with some help from the waitress, worked though the menu and ended up ordering a great meal.

Unfortunately, Umberto (our German speaker) was dealing with a flat tire in the support van, and he joined us just as we were about to head out!

More forest trails to enjoy after lunch!

An Abbey overlooking Bad Staffelstein

We started slowly after our great meal, but soon picked up the pace and made our way to Bad Staffelstein. We arrived at the hotel and enjoyed some recovery beverages (chocolate milk left over from the PBP) before checking in. With plenty of time before dinner, we were able to do a little laundry, visit the hotel spa, and have a few more 'recovery' beverages!

On foot to dinner, Enrico and Debby discuss the weather forecast!

Dinner was a short walk away, and while the weather forecast did not predict rain, the clouds continued to build as we made our way to the restaurant. We chose to sit on the patio with fingers crossed that the dark clouds would pass, but soon after our drinks were delivered, we were chased inside by an isolated thunderstorm and enjoyed the rest of our meal in the breakfast room!

The wet walk back to the hotel

The rain did not last long, and it brought welcome relief from the heat. We had a pleasant stroll back to the hotel to call this a day. (Click here for GPS data)

Day 3 Bamberg

Perfect morning for a ride

Enrico and Umberto were up and out early to complete the repair of the van tire and we were ready to go at 9 am. Today's route will take us to Bamburg in the heart of the beer region of Franconia. Also on tap today, an extra loop opportunity to add a few miles to the standard route. Basically, it adds one climb over a ridge to the next valley then rejoins the main route downstream. We rolled out together and yours truly peeled off at about 3 miles into the ride for the extra loop.

Start of the extra loop

Leaving the bike path, the route follows paved and tiled farm roads up and over a low ridge through corn and potato fields. It rejoins the main route in Rattlesdorf about 16 miles into the ride.

Typical rural village

The route includes many small rural villages, often with newer structures next to older traditional ones. All the roads were in great shape, and again much of the route was on dedicated bike paths.

Excellent bike path system

Many of the bike paths are constructed on old rail lines that parallel the main road. They have ample signage and it would take quite an effort to get lost!

Bike path on an old rail line

Once over the ridge and in the next valley, the bike path was straight with a slight downgrade all the way to Rattelsdorf where the extra loop joined the main route. The only hazard, windfall from the many apple trees in the area that create the potential for a slip and slide if you were to hit one of those tasty treats!

Entering Bamburg

After rejoining the main group, we made our way over the only climb on the main route and entered the outskirts of Bamburg just before noon. Making our way to the city center, the town was festive with flags and banners. Hitting the main square, it was time to dismount and wade into a Monday morning beer festival!

The 'Navy Band' at the Beer Festival

Monday morning Beer Festival!

We found a place for the bikes and secured a table under one of the many tents and enjoyed a fine lunch. It was a 'beer only' tent, meaning the waitress would bring drinks, and we could get food from any of the many vendors in the square.

Don't mind if I do! Yours truly and Umberto

With beverages delivered we all set out in different directions and found roast duck, bratwurst, and even some sub-par pizza to go with the frosty brew! As the lunch crowd thinned, we headed to our hotel only a few blocks away. We had plenty of time to relax before the guided walking tour of Bamburg later in the afternoon!

View from our room, over the River Main

Stumbling stones (Stolperstein)

We met our guide outside the hotel and set out for a tour of the city. As we headed toward the Cathedral, we stopped in front of a small hotel. Embedded in the road in front of the hotel are Stolperstein, translated "Stumbling Stones." They are small bronze monuments to commemorate individuals at exactly the last place of residency before they fell victim to Nazi terror. The small hotel was once the Katz family home. These three stones commemorate the Katz family that was 'deported' to Auschwitz in 1943.

We continue the tour through Bamburg

Gardens at Neue Residenz

Our walking tour continued through the Jewish Quarter on the way to the Cathedral and Neue Residenz that overlook the city. Heading back to the city, our guide said we could walk for another 45 minutes or jump into a local brewery for a beer tasting.

Our tour guide leads a beer tasting

Tasting the 'Smoke  Beer'

Well, that was an easy choice. We sampled four brews saving the "smoke brew" for last. This is a beer that that uses malted barley dried over an open flame. Our guide instructed us to hold our noses as we sipped the beer to impart the full smoke aroma. He was right! All four were great beers.

 Everyone likes a parade...

...Except maybe this guy!

Stepping outside the brewery, the tour was over, but just then a parade marches by! We stand aside as a marching band heads toward the square followed by dignitaries and others along for the ride! We were concerned about the rooster in the cage, the parade may not have a happy ending for him!

Dinner was on the terrace of our hotel. It overlooked the river and had a nice cool breeze. We could hear the rock band at the festival quite clearly over the river. They were actually pretty good, and played a wide selection of American Classic Rock

Fireworks mark the end of the Beer Festival

The party went on until about 10 pm and was capped with a fireworks show we were able to enjoy from the comfort of our room! (Click here for GPS data)

Day 4  Volkach

Rolling out of Bamburg

Its a beautiful morning and we roll off the front of the group, planning to rejoin at the first regroup. Take some pictures and enjoy the quiet roads, and not notice the Garmin has rerouted us off the original course. No worries, with the Ciclismo map in hand, and the ample Radweg signage, we simply take a different way and rejoin the route at Burgebrach. Still ahead of the group, but past the first regroup we continue to the lunch stop in Ebrach.

Many Catholic shrines throughout the region

Typical highway with adjacent bike path

Entering Ebrach

We arrive at Ebrach ahead of the group and have time to grab a quick bite at a bakery and walk around the town. There is a huge cathedral in town, but honestly, it looked kind of non-de-script from the outside. But we had time so we parked the bike and headed in.

Rose window at the Ebrach Cathedral

It was fantastic! Rose marble columns, ornate carvings, and breathtaking stained glass windows. We lingered there for a quite a while before lunch! Lunch was at an outdoor cafe adjacent to the Cathedral and museum. It was shady and a great place to take a break!

Wide open rural roads, very little traffic

With temperatures rising, we headed back out for the push to Volkach. We are in big farm country on wide open rural roads. Here there were no bike paths, but there was little if any traffic on the road. Just sit back and ride the gentle rollers all the way to Volkach!

Volkach, near our hotel

Volkach is an old style village and we rode past the hotel on our first try. Circling back, we realize the hotel is behind the restaurant and wine store that is owned by the same family. We find our way to the room in time to catch the last 40km of a La Vuelta stage and do a little laundry!

At the hotel to catch the finish of a La Vuelta stage

We meet our wine tour guide in the wine store/hotel lobby. She warns us that is quite cool in the wine cellar. We say 'yes, please' and quickly descend to the cellar. There she provides an overview of the wine country that we will be riding through over the next couple of days. She noted that we had left beer country and were now in wine country!

Our 'wine guide' explains the region

Sampling the wares in the hotel winery

Sampling among the oak casks

Our tour continued deeper into the cellar where wine was aging in oak casks and we sampled another variety. All were good, and the tour was enjoyable and informative. She provided some recommendations as we climbed the steps back to the store and many of us selected some wine to take home!

Great meal with Ken

Dinner was on our own tonight, Don had a reservation at the hotel restaurant but they couldn't add us, so we set out with Ken to a place down the street that was busy, but had a table. It was another great Franconian meal!

Another fine evening

We made our way back to the room after another full day in Germany. (Click here for GPS data)

Day 5 Wurzburg

Fountain in Volcach

With the continued heat wave, we agreed that instead of stopping for lunch we would press to get to our destination in Wursburg and grab a late lunch there to try and beat the heat.

Umberto leads the peloton on the bike path 'down by the river'

The route follows the winding river Main through vineyards and orchards and is pancake flat for the first 20km.

Lots of vineyards

Church at the first regroup

Leaving the river Main, the route heads up and back into big farm country. The profile looks like there are two steep climbs, but are actually they are short 4% grades climbing out of some farm villages.

Wide open farmland

Handy picnic table!

 Too bad we didn't stop for lunch here, perhaps it gets a little hot in there!

Entering Wursburg, home of a Burger King!

We entered Wursburg about 12:30 and parked the van and bikes in a municipal garage a block or so from the hotel. We beat the heat on the bikes, but Wursburg is probably the most urban city on the tour. We were spoiled by the wide open country side, with ample shade and breezes.

Thank goodness for the ceiling fan!

The rooms were ready so we checked in and cleaned up to head out for lunch. There was a doner kabab place nearby, and while we had some difficulty finding it, it was open air and probably 95 degrees inside! No thanks!

Vegan burgers

We bagged that and headed to a 'Texican Restaurant' near the hotel. Sitting down the helpful waitress noted that the Texican place was not open for lunch and we were seated in a Vegan place. We ordered drinks right away and checked out the menu. We both had delicious 'burgers' made with ground bean and olives. That was an unexpected pleasure!

Back to our room to rest before the walking tour. The room is west facing on the top floor and was quite hot. Good for drying the laundry, not so good for hot riders! Luckily there was a ceiling fan, and that combined with some damp towels, we were able to enjoy some relief via evaporative cooling!

Wine festival

Deb decided to bag the 3 pm walking tour due to the heat and the rest of the group set out with our guide to the old part of Wursburg.

Restored historic buildings in Wursburg

Tour guide in Wursburg

Our guide pointed out that Wursburg was flattened by Allied bombing at the end of WWII. So all the historic buildings have been restored, none were left standing in the town at the conclusion of the war.

Sunset and welcome cool!

The tour ended on a bridge over the river Main, just under the prince bishop castle fortress. Many folks were enjoying a glass of wine (or more) from the festival. Dinner was in a courtyard of one of the restored buildings, and was great, especially as the sun set and the town finally cooled off! (Click here for GPS data)

Day 6 Rothenburg ob der Tauber

Morning on the Main

Nice cool morning

We rolled out of Wursburg, seemingly before it woke up and were on the bike path along the river Main right away. The route for the day would follow the river for 20km, then gentle rollers to the lunch stop in Rottingen and finally the finishing climb into Rothenburg ob de Tauber. Our last day on the bikes, and it seems like the tour just started!

Enrico leads the peloton out of Wursburg

First regroup in Ochsenfurt

The shade and gentle breeze made the kilometers click by and soon we were at the first regroup in Ochsenfurt. A cool little town on the river 20 kms into the ride, made it a perfect regroup spot. We didn't linger however, wanting to try and stay ahead of the heat.

The only flat tire of the trip, just past those trees!

Off the front and rolling through farmland, an oncoming tractor is trimming the roadside grass. Pulling off the path so he can continue, we wave him past and then head on. Not really noticing all the debris the mower kicked onto the path, about 1 km later my rear tire blows. No problem, change the tube and use the mini-pump to get back on the road. The mini-pump didn't quite do the trick, so pulling off I stop to pump again. Just then Enrico rolls up and takes over with his more ample pump and its back on the road.

Umberto circles back and meets me at the next road crossing and we fill the tire to 90 pounds with the floor pump from the van and are back in business!

Rolling roads to Rottingen

We get the the lunch spot early and enjoy a Radler (half beer, half lemonade), the German Arnold Palmer, before the rest of the group arrives.

At the lunch stop with a German Arnold Palmer!

Its a great little cafe featuring German and Italian dishes and with plenty of shade and we take a nice long break.

Always precise, Enrico models the size of the pizzas

Ken confirms the pizza sizing!

After lunch we set out again at a slow 'digestion' pace, but after a while we dial it up and we cover the last, and perhaps most beautiful, 20 kilometers of the tour! It's all uphill, but you hardly notice. The path follows the famous 'Romantic Road.' A theme route with relatively modern origins (1950s). It was devised by promotion-minded travel agents and thought to possess "quintessentially German" scenery and culture.

Forget all that, it was a fantastic ride!

Village along the romantic road

The route follows this river upstream

The bike path is separate from the road and weaves in and out of farms, villages, and forests. The closer we get to Rothenburg, the more the bike traffic picks up, and the steeper the climbs become! In the distance we can see a group of cycle-tourists. We gain on the downhill and flats, but they seem to hold their own on the uphills. Catching them on a flat section, we roll though. No wonder, they are all on E-bikes. Just then the road tilts up and its out of the saddle to climb to the top. Meanwhile, in the group behind, the conversation continues unabated by the climb!

Too bad it was defekt!

A nice descent puts the tourists in the rear-view mirror and brings us to a small village outside of Rothenburg and there is a Continental vending machine on the side of the path! Too bad it was out of order, we could have used a replacement tube!

Rothenburg on the ridge above the Tauber river!

The last 2km of climb up to the city is steep, but at a steady grade, and with the views of the city, it goes by quickly. Soon we are bouncing on old city cobbles through this 'Fairy Tale' town. Finding the hotel was a bit of a trick, but with the riding done, its time to enjoy a cold beverage. Unfortunately, its also time to pack the bikes.

Rothenburg from our hotel

We broke down the bikes and packed them in the travel cases as Enrico and Umberto did the same with the tour bikes, right on the front sidewalk of the hotel! We had to sweat a small snag. OK, I stripped a bolt on Debby's bike that needed to come out to remove the crank. They say necessity is the mother of invention, now we know how to pack the bikes without having to remove the cranks!

Main square in Rothenburg

With the bikes packed we took one more lap around town before the rain came! Dinner was at a contemporary German restaurant. There was only one menu, your choice was only the number of courses you wanted to 'experience!' We each selected either the 5 or 6 course meal. It came slowly and deliberately, and reminded us of the Navy Federal commercial : "My big sister makes tiny food, and I'm OK with that!"

Second course of a six course meal of tiny food!

Dessert, for three!

Back to the hotel!

A fantastic dessert topped off a great meal as we toasted to the success of the trip. (Click here for GPS data)

Day 7 - Auf Wiedersehen

Don decided to spend another day in Rothenburg. Ken would be flying out of Nurenburg and was on the same train(s) as us. After breakfast, Enrico and Umberto made space in the van and hauled us to the train station. We arrived in Nurenburg and spent a night there before heading to Cologne to spend the weekend with friends before heading back to London and home.

Wow, that week went by fast! The small group size made it extra special and other than the heat-wave that took the fun out of a couple of afternoons, it was a fantastic trip!

(Click here for the full photo album)

Steve Atkins