Welcome to the last stage of our European adventure. As if the PBP, and a week in a Euro Camper van, was not enough, let’s throw in a cycling tour with Santana Adventures. This edition would include Spain, Portugal, and a day that would include Gibraltar UK and Morocco for a 2 continent 4 country journey to really give our passports a workout! Let’s get going.
Monday - Barcelona
We booked the two-day pre tour that included a ride to Monserrat and the monastery/cathedral near the top. The ride would start in Marotell (yes where we picked up RV), but instead of adding 20 miles of city riding, we boarded busses to Marotell and rode up to Monserrat. We’ll not all the way up, we rode a cog train for the final pitch and picked up our bikes near the top.
First morning selfie!
Rocks of Monserrat
Cathedral and shrine of the Black Madonna
After touring the shrine, we headed back to the parking lot where our bikes awaited for the ride to the lunch spot. It was a net loss in elevation, but included lots of climbs and was a tough day of riding.
Reminded us of the Queen Creek area near Superior AZ
The only disappointing meal of the trip
We stopped at a hotel that used to be famous for its lunch. According to Bill from Santana Adventures, post-COVID, this lunch is now famous for how good it used to be.
Vineyards and Monserrat
Wine tour at Cava Codorniu
Sparkling wine, second fermentation in the bottle!
We usually skip vineyard tours, but this one was where we put the bikes back on the trucks and take a bus back to the hotel. So we joined in and it was actually very interesting. The best part was when we went into the nice cool cellars! The sparkling wines made here used to be called champagne, but under EU rules that date back to the 60’s; only sparking wine from that region of France can be called champagne. In Spain its called Cava.
Back to the hotel and dinner was on our own so we found a paella place on La Rambla to finish our day!
Tuesday - Barcelona
Embark day! We start with a guided city tour of Barcelona that lasted nearly 3 hours!
We started on the beach
Climbed to some great overlooks
Olympic Stadium grounds
Our passionate guide Carla
Our guide Carla does not normally do cycling tours, but with the huge number of cyclists, and only 14 riders allowed per guide (city rules) the organizer asked her to guide as a favor. We were lucky to have her guide our group!
More city riding
Back at the beach, near the cruise terminal
The tour ended at a restaurant that served a fantastic multi-course meal that included mussels, salad, seafood paella and dessert. We took our time getting to the ship, we have found that the embark lines are much shorter closer to the all-aboard time on Santana Cruises!
Our home for the next 8 days!
Our line strategy worked to perfection and soon we were settled into our cabin and ready for the safety drills and the ‘Tomorrow's Overview’ presentation by Bill.
Wednesday - Palma Mallorca
Morning selfie
Originally the tour itinerary had us riding across Mallorca from Palma to meet the ship at another port. However, in the post-COVID era, cruise ships are only allowed to dock only in Palma. We rode out of the cruise port and through the busy city of Palma before heading out of town. Outbound, we ended up on a freeway for about 2 km because we missed the entrance to the bike path that was right next to it. No worries, we got off at the next exit and rejoined the route.
Great coastal riding
We stopped for coffee in Peguera at a coffee stop that was nearly overrun by Santana riders. But our waiter was up for the challenge and soon we had coffee and a ham and cheese croissant that was grilled in a panini press and it was delicious!
We headed out toward our morning destination, Port Andratx, but instead took a side trip to Camp de Mar and enjoyed quiet riding and great beach views.
Hard to find, easy to follow bike path
Returning to Palma it was easy to find the bike path and we followed it (not the freeway) back in the busy city area.
Our ship at rest
My original plan was to head back out on the the long ride to the Coll de Vent, but the heat and city traffic convinced me to call it a day.
Great sunset at dinner
We were able to catch the days La Vuelta stage relaxing in our cabin before a great dinner in the outdoor seating at the restaurant and call this a day.
Thursday - Castallon de la Plana to Valencia Spain
Room service breakfast
We decided to start our day with breakfast on our balcony! It was great, once we realized the small mini-milk bottle was a smoothy, not cream.
Finding the bikes
Today would be a long day, but since the course followed the coast, it would be flat except for a freeway overpass or two!
Rolling out of the port
We had 55+ miles to cover and with the predicted afternoon heat, we wanted to get this one done before it got too hot. So we started as soon as the bikes were ready and headed out in the cool morning air.
Miles of Valencia orange orchards today!
Short gravel section turned to sand on the beach
A long but flat day
Neighborhood restaurant
We decided we would try and get at least 20 miles in before taking our first break. We passed a coffee shop or two in some beach towns, but too early to stop. Once we had 20 miles in, we found ourselves in a working town near Alamenare. We spotted this small bar/cafeteria in an apartment block in a residential section. We were ready for a break and stopped in.
One of the best lunches of the trip!
It was a family place and the husband (bartender) nor the wife (waitress/hostess/cook) spoke English. With my limited high school Spanish, we were able to order cold drinks and lunch. I thought we were ordering a salad and a coke. It turned out to be a 3 course ‘complete’ lunch. Tuna salad, short rib stew, and ice cream!
They offered to turn on the AC inside, but we sat outside near a playground in the shade where the outdoor tables were set up. The owners family/friends sat at the table next to us, resuming their morning conversation before they took a break to serve us lunch. We stayed much longer than planned, but it was probably the most enjoyable lunch of the trip!
Sunset departure
It was another 30 miles to reach the ship, but with full stomachs, and riding at an easy pace we rolled into Valencia in the late afternoon. We decided to stay on the ship, catch the La Vuelta stage, and call it a day!
Friday - Cartagena Spain
Military base/shipyard in Cartagena
First long climb
Debby wisely decided that after yesterdays long ride in the heat, that today would be a good for a rest day. There were ride options that included a loop to a beach town and a side trip to a military battery overlooking the entrance to Cartagena harbor that totaled about 53 miles with 4300’ of climbing. Sounds like a plan!
Road to The Battery
For the morning bike brigade (guests and staff form a ‘bucket brigade’ to unload the bikes), I joined the team on the pier. Once the bikes were all off, I hopped in mine and was the first out of the port. I wanted to cover all the distance but get back early to hang out with Debby on the ship.
Military Battery
The first 11 miles leaving the port was on a steady uphill to a viewpoint. From here, it was a fast descent to the side road that would lead out and back to the military battery. There were several stiff 8% climbs and descents along the way.
WWII era big guns
Great command of entrance to Cartagena
The guns and views were worth the extra effort to make the side trip. The ruins date from early days of powder cannons and tall ships to the WWII era.
Road surface to and from the Battery
The road surface was uneven and broken, with blind corners, so you had to be especially careful on the descents! There were uphill riders from Santana on the road, plus several tour busses heading to the battery.
Puerto de Mazarron
Soon I was back on the main road and enjoyed a nice descent to the beach town of Puerto de Mazarron. There was a nice layer of morning clouds so the weather was perfect. I rolled through town and changed my Garmin route for the final segment of the day. A 6 mile climb to a coll, then a 12 mile gradual descent into Cartagena and our ship.
Rolling out of the beach area, this group was enjoying a Beachside dance class! I only had bike shoes, so I didn’t join in ;-)
Bike dip in the Mediterranean Sea
I stopped to dip the bike into the Med, then stopped at a convenience store for water, Coke, and an ice cream before heading out and up on the last segment.
Top of last climb
There was a group of Santana riders leaving the summit at La Cuesta when I arrived. After a short stop, I caught and passed them on the way back to the ship and made my way through town and back to the port.
Back in time for today’s stage!
I grabbed a couple of sandwiches and refreshments and made it back to the cabin in time to enjoy the days LaVuelta stage!
Saturday - Malaga Spain
Global Navigator in Malaga
The ride options for today were not that appealing, a hard 48 mile loop, or a an uphill out and back on a historic truck route.
Happy with our ride choice
After the route talk, I hopped on Ride with GPS and created an alternate route that would follow the coast to the beach town of Rincon de la Victoria and back. We started out on a wide city boulevard with a bike/bus lane that eventually emptied us out onto a bike/pedestrian path along the beach. Full disclosure: Due to construction, we ended up on a freeway for about 1 km, but exited onto the bike path without incident!
Scenic bike path
Several tunnels for the multi-use path
There were huge rock outcroppings that reached the sea just ahead and I thought we might be at a dead end. Instead of a dead end, the bike path had several tunnels through the outcroppings that were wide and well lit, and with no motor vehicle traffic. What a great find!
Brunch!
After 8 miles of easy, nearly walking pace riding (many pedestrians) we stopped for coffee and a snack. These breakfast sandwiches were great and just hit the spot!
Some hard pack dirt to avoid pedestrians
To say it was a leisurely ride would be an understatement, covering just 16 miles in nearly 3 hours! But we both needed an easy day and our alternative route was perfect. On the way back, we avoided the freeway using a couple of one-way streets and made our way back to the ship.
Vigil Mass in the Cathedral
Malaga Cathedral
We had a real lunch on the ship and headed into Malaga to explore the town and the visit the Cathedral and attend the vigil Mass. Tomorrow with be the ‘Queen Stage’ of our tour; 3 countries, two continents, and some hard riding, so we were happy to take an easy day.
Today is the Queen Stage of the tour, riding in three countries on two continents on the same day! Logistically difficult and challenging to ride due to ship, bus, and ferry schedules. Throw in some freeway riding and limited SOS/SAG support and you have potential for an epic day. Bill even provided a handy sheet to help us decide which route to select. We decided to go for the medium ride and boarded the AWD bus to take us up the Rock of Gibraltar!
First stop, the lighthouse at the base of the rock
The Rock near dawn
St. Michael’s Cave
The second stop on the tour up the rock was at St. Michael’s Cave, named for the likeness of the archangel. The light show was stunning and after we exited, we boarded the tour bus for the final climb into the monkey zone and final stop at the gift shop/restaurant.
Looking for ice cream!
They warn the tourists about the aggressive monkeys, and one actually swiped an ice cream from one of the Santana staff members!
Riding across the runway
The runway is clear!
We descended down the rock, through town and back to the bikes. We mounted up and rode out of the port and across the airport runway to the border checkpoint where we exited the UK. A few meters later, and we stop again at a Spanish checkpoint and re-enter Spain! The route takes us up and away from the water and we enter a freeway for 6 miles of morning freeway riding. Traffic is light and it’s no problem.
We elect to take the ‘rabbit hole’ route to avoid having to exit left over two lanes of traffic at a large freeway interchange. It was all going well until we met a closed fence/gate over the roadway. I thought it was locked and looked for a way around. Another rider checked it and it was unlocked. We went through, and hit another dead end, more construction fencing, but it was not totally secure and we squeezed through a small opening in the bottom!
We finally arrived at the ferry terminal and enjoyed a couple Coke Zeros and a ham and cheese sandwich!
On the ferry
We boarded the ferry for a 1.5 hour uneventful crossing from Spain to the ferry port in Morocco called Tangier Med. It’s a huge modern port and was very busy, even for a Sunday morning. More passport controls on the ferry and one last stamp before leaving the port and we were on our way.
Tangier Med near the port
Rolling out of the brand-new port into the town of Tangier Med was quite the study in contrast! Run-down buildings and vehicles, lots of men loitering about, many cat-calling to the women on bikes, and heavy traffic did not make a good first impression of Morocco!
Water stop at a small roadside shop
Great views in the countryside.
Once we left Tangier Med and hit the countryside, the views improved and suddenly the locals were friendly and honking their horns and cheering as we rode on. In fact, one family with a young son must have passed us three times, leaning out the window and cheering us on. On the last long climb, we saw a shady spot half-way up and decided to take a break in the shade. The family was there in their car. They had purchased big water bottles and insisted they fill our bottles. Quite a difference from our ‘welcome’ in Tangier Med!
Immaculate streets of Tangier
In what seemed like a blink of an eye, we entered the modern streets of Tangier. Wide boulevards and huge waterfront/beach parks went on for miles. We skipped the camel photos arranged by Santana and headed straight to the meeting point at the Hotel Continental.
View from the Hotel Continental
Enjoyed lemonade, not beer to celebrate the ride!
The plan was to take walking tours through the market, but with the long ride and heat, we were ready to call this a day and head back to the ship. One more passport control and we were back aboard for a midnight departure back to Spain.
Sunset over Tangier
Monday - Cadiz Spain
Just me today!
There were several rides available today, and all the returns involved a ferry or a bus to return to Cadiz. Cadiz is located on the end of a long narrow spit and the only way is by train or freeway. Because there are no alternatives, cycling is allowed on that stretch of freeway. Debby was feeling the miles and heat from our Morocco adventure and took a rest day, so I elected to ride the A route to Jerez.
Beaches clear in the early morning
We picked our way along the beach where possible to avoid some the freeway outbound. Lots of turns and some dedicated bike lanes made for easy riding.
Forest preserve
Once in the country, and with the freeway behind us, the roads opened up through forests and farms.
Strange statue in Jerez
I made it the 33 miles or so to Jerez and box lunches were waiting. So I grabbed a lunch and skipped horses the tour and decided to head back. To avoid waiting for the ferry, I decided to simply backtrack the A route to Cadiz. I figured I could be back at the ship before the ferry even left.
Wide open roads
A little sugar helps the miles go down!
The riding was quiet, only a few trucks and the roads were good. My only issue was I backtracked on a service road that emptied onto the freeway in the wrong direction. I went another half-mile looking for an underpass, no luck. So I backtracked to an overpass, and rode the correct side of the freeway and added 5 bonus miles in the process!
Freeway on the Cadiz spit
Once on the freeway, I decided to take it all the way into town and skip the beach tours from the morning ride. I arrived back at the ship in time for lunch and a relaxing afternoon around the pool! The first ferry riders arrived about two hours after my return, so mission accomplished!
Great dinner with Santana friends!
We finished the day in the outdoor section of the dining room with friends!
Tuesday - Portimao Portugal
Bikes unloaded for the last time
Our last, and only day of riding in Portugal was in the beach town of Portimao. There were rides on offer of 4, 31, 39, and 75 miles.
Morning selfie
Boardwalk
Beach goers have not arrived
The 4 mile boardwalk ride was highly recommended and we figured to do that one first, before the beach crowds arrived. It was a good strategy and another Santana couple had the same idea so we exchanged cameras for photos!
Morning drinks!
We rolled back toward the port to start the 31 mile route, but yours truly selected the inbound route instead of the outbound route by mistake. After too many (wrong way) one-way streets we figured out my mistake. We spotted a nearby beach and decided to check it out. We spent the next hour there enjoying the shade and drinks.
Another cannon to lean the bike against!
Instead of pressing on, we decided to head back to the ship and call it a day. Since it was the last day of riding, we would need to repack the bikes and our cabin for disembark tomorrow. I was able to find a nice spot in the shade at the port terminal, and using the bath towels we purchased for the camper weeks ago, was able to have a nice clean area to disassemble and pack the bikes. All packed, and as the undersides of the towels were now coated in seagull droppings and feathers, they went into trash!
Sailing out of Portimao
We sailed for Lisbon at 4:30 pm and enjoyed great views of Portimao as we headed out. Another dinner in the outdoor section of the dining room, where we noted that we were using a busy shipping lane for our route to Lisbon. There were ferry’s and container ships in all directions either heading to or from our evenings destination.
Wednesday - Lisbon
Carlos, our cabbie and tour guide
We had our last breakfast on the ship and headed out to the terminal to claim our luggage and grab a taxi. Carlos was next in line and he was able to fit all our bags (two large duffels and two bike cases) in his Hybrid Toyota! We gave him directions to the hotel, but he had a better offer. For 140 euros he would tour us around Lisbon, see ‘all the important sights’ and have us to our hotel by 1 pm. We dicided to give it a try; and it was a great decision!
First stop, Our Lady of the Mount overlook. Great views of the city in almost 360 degrees.
Trolley car
Baptismal font at the Cathedral
We tried to get into the Monastery of Jeronimos but the lines were huge, and Carlos tried to get us in a side gate, but he could not convince the attendant to let us in. We had better luck at the Cathedral of Lisbon. Carlos worked his magic and got us in without having to buy a ticket and we were able to tour a portion of the Cathedral. We agreed with Rick Steve’s guidebook assessment that the outside is impressive, the inside not so much!
Famous pastry
Carlos again worked his magic at the Casa Pasteis de Belem, we skipped the line and he got us in and gave us a tour of the kitchen area before getting seated at a table right away. He even arranged with the waitress to give us the small espresso cup and saucer in the photo! ‘Just leave her a nice tip’ and we did!
Making the pastry from the kitchen tour!
Back to the car, Carlos was always able to park in taxi stands, or double park while we toured each sight so we covered a lot of ground in a short period of time.
Belem tower
Goldengate bridge’s sibling
Monument to the Discoveries
Our next stops were the Belem tower, Monument to the Discoveries, and views of the 25th of April Bridge (same designer and time frame as the San Francisco Goldengate bridge. Here again he parked in restricted zones and either talked it up with a nearby policeman or food cart operator while we toured the sights.
We visited several churches along the way and popped inside to take a look
We covered many stops in Rick Steve’s walking tours, but didn’t have to take nearly as many steps!
‘High School of Corruption’ (Parliament building)
Carlos was not a fan of the current state of political affairs in Portugal and made that clear by his description of the Parliment Building!
Sao Roque church
This statue in the square near the Sao Roque church is a lottery salesman we would later read about in Rick Steve’s guidebook. Apparently you are to buy a lottery ticket in a nearby kiosk and rub the bronze one he is holding for luck! We were already winners for our tour guide decision and didn’t need a ticket.
Our last stop on our whirlwind tour was the grassy mall where the Pope recently held Mass on World Youth Day. Carlos dropped us off at our hotel at the agreed time and thanked him for a great speed tour of Lisbon and we wished each other well!
Our room was not ready, but the hotel comped our lunch and drinks while we waited (nice to have Hilton Diamond status)! It gave us a chance to catch our breath from the morning tour!
After settling in, and the sun began to set, we headed out for a walk and to look for a light dinner.
Paris?
This Metro entrance was fashioned like ones we have seen in Paris. This one was a one-off, others had different and more normal entrances.
Nearly all the sidewalks in Lisbon are beautiful mosaic cobble stones!
Debby does a little shopping
Our kit, if we rode a tandem!
Why not finish the trip with Portuguese hot dogs
Sunset in Lisbon
We enjoyed our quick hit of Lisbon, and plan to return. The following morning we headed to the airport and started our journey home. We flew Air France to Paris, then non-stop to LAX. We would arrive after the last flight out to PHX on Southwest, so we planned on staying at the LAX Hilton and flying home on Friday morning. While it would have been great to get home Thursday night, it was nice to get a shower and some rest before heading back Friday morning.
We arrived home Friday morning, with all our bags and Mark picked us up at the airport for the last leg of our month-long journey.
It is Friday morning, one week later, and we both are finally over the last vestige of jet-lag. Time for a bike ride!
Thanks for following along, and we hope you enjoyed sharing our journey through France, Spain, Andorra, UK, Morocco, and Portugal!
