2023 Just North of the Border 600km Brevet

 Ride Report

Javelina Rocks at Saguaro National Park

To qualify for Paris-Brest-Paris this summer; 4 brevets of increasing distance must be completed in the event year, each under its own time limit.The 200, 300, and 400 kilometer distances are in the books for me and only a 600km is left to ride. Mike Sturgill combined two existing routes in Southern Arizona, Just North of the Border 400 and the Madera Canyon 200 for this 40 hour event.

Mike Sturgill gives the rider brief

14 riders gathered at the El Con Mall Starbucks in Tucson for the start at 0600. 8 were riding the 600 and 6 had selected the 400. Attendance on these brevets typically declines as the distances get longer. This year, many riders were able to complete their 600 requirement for Paris in December (the PBP qualifying year begins on October 1), so a number of Arizona riders already have their 600 in the bag. 

It was great to see some familiar faces as the riders gathered for the recap of last minute instructions and rider brief from Mike Sturgill (Regional Brevet Administrator for RUSA). Stephen Kinney and a several other fast men from Alberta Canada and Brian McGuire from Phoenix were lined up for the 600. Tom Altemus from Tucson, and an 'old racing buddy', Doug McLerran from Illinois were ready to go for the 400! The sun is about to come up, let's get going!

Paul Danhaus at Rincon Mountain Lookout

We rolled out and, as is my custom lately, I drifted back to the end of the group. I was a bit surprised to be joined by Paul Danhaus. I first met Paul at the 2008 Shenandoah 1200 somewhere in Virginia. He is an accomplished long distance rider (RAAM) and a wonderful person. He lives in Wisconsin, and winters in Yuma Arizona practicing veterinary medicine. He and his wife Jennifer often ride a tandem on Arizona brevets.

We had a chance to catch up as we headed toward the Saguaro National Park. Even though we were at the back of the pack, traffic lights on Broadway were holding up the fast riders, and we caught them several times during the first few miles.

In any case, it was a chance to catch up. Paul had a serious run-in with an unleashed dog last year that ended his Coulee 1200 early. Shortly after recovering from that serious incident, he fell victim to an unseen road crack that threw him again, "adding a few more broken ribs to his collection." He was not yet comfortable piloting the tandem with Jennifer and was riding the 400 at a recovery pace. Once we turned off Broadway the fast guys disappeared up the road and we enjoyed each others company to the Saguaro National Park.

Mike Sturgill, Doug McLerran and Tom Altemus

We rode together through the park and Paul dropped off as we made our way to the Chevron station in Vail. Tom and Doug were there getting ready to head out. Its the last stop for water for 30 miles (25 of it uphill) before reaching Sonoita. They rolled out shortly after I arrived and was able to grab some supplies and a picture!

Old Sonoita Highway

Its a 20 mile steady climb on AZ-83. A narrow and sometimes busy two-lane highway. This year, Mike added the Old Sonoita Highway to the route that replaced the first 6 miles of AZ-83 with a nearly deserted alternative. The road surface got rough in places, but it was a great route.

Tom leads the group

I played a bit of leap frog with Tom and Doug until we settled in to the real climbing on AZ 83. We stayed together to the top and the climb past the Border Patrol checkpoint on the way to Sonoita. We rode at a comfortable pace and were able to share stories, only interrupted by the the noise of passing traffic!

Snow on Mt. Wrightson in the distance

My two-speed bike

After the Border Patrol checkpoint, it is 10 miles of downhill rollers to Sonoita. Normally a section to really make up time after the long climb. Just clearing the top of the first roller, a hear/feel a pop in the real derailleur and I'm stuck in the climbing gear. I dropped off the group thinking my derailleur cable had snapped. I parked the bike near a handy road sign and dug out the repair kit with a new cable.

 

I tried to pull the old cable and it wouldn't budge. It was intact, but a spring in the derailleur was not. About that time Paul Danhaus rides up and stops to check on me. I tell him the bike is done and I planned to head back to Tucson, and asked him to let Mike Sturgill know I would probably be heading back. 

There was cell service there, and I called Mike Cox at Curbside Cyclery. He confirmed it was not repairable. He said this was only the second time he had heard of this failure over many years as a mechanic! SRAM derailleurs default to the largest cog and Mike suggested I use the limit screws to try to move the chain "one or two gears down" to make the bike more ride-able. His trick worked, I was able to get the chain from the 34 to the 27 tooth rear cog. The front derailleur was fine, so now I had a two-speed.

I sent Mike Sturgill a text saying I was headed back to Tucson and turned around and started to head back, and it actually was not too bad riding the two-speed, then I had an idea. What if Debby could bring another bike to Tucson. I would complete the next 300km on the two-speed then change to my old Canondale for the last 200 to Madera Canyon. I confirmed with Mike that plan was within the RUSA rules (no support allowed between controls), and decided to head to Elgin and decide then to either continue or abandon the ride.

Road to Elgin

Elgin Information Control

Lured into a false sense of progress by a strong tailwind, I make Elgin in good time and decide to continue the ride! In the 50/27 combination I could spin at about 100 rpm and hold about 15-17 mph on the flats and faster on downhills, or with the wind. Dropping to the 34/27 I could handle climbing the moderate rollers.

Mike's control at the Longhorn in Tombstone

The gravel section in Tombstone

All smiles and making progress

I roll into Tombstone and Mike welcomes me to the control. I am about two hours ahead of the close time and about an hour behind Tom, Doug, and Paul. I make it a quick stop and continue on toward Bisbee.

Mule Pass above Bisbee

The tailwind is now a cross wind, but manageable as I make my way to the steep climb to Bisbee. My derailleur was cooperating but I was not looking forward to doing the climb in the 27 cog. I decide to risk messing with it and adjust the screws to put it back in the 32 cog. I head up noticing that miles on the two-speed have taken a toll on the legs. Its not an easy climb normally, but today it was more difficult than usual, even with a slight tailwind.

I reach the top at Mule Pass just as the sun was setting behind the mountains, and at 6000 feet, the temperature dropped dramatically! I put on layers and tried to adjust the derailleur back to the 27. It dropped only one gear to the 30 and would not go further. Ugh!

Closed

The Market Cafe is normally a wonderful place for dinner, but its closed. Its 30 miles to Sierra Vista and I have food and water on the bike, so I press on though town.

Its not a stick-up, its cold!

Lowell Arizona Time Warp

The route leaves town and detours through Lowell Arizona. Most the town was overcome by the nearby open pit copper mine. All that was left was main street, and it has been restored to its 50/60s glory!

The terrain is gentle long rollers to Sierra Vista. Its dark and cold and with the rear stuck on the 30 cog, my 100 cadence only yields about 13 miles per hour, and my pace slows considerably. What was really frustrating, is that I could see Paul and Tom's taillights in the distance. I would make slight progress on the climbs, but they would disappear on the descents! I make Sierra Vista before the McDonald's closed and had a hot dinner. I put on my 250 wool layer and head back out. Its another 35 miles back to Sonoita and I get there about 1 am. Mike is waiting, like a guardian angel, with food and hot ramen. I am still about 2 hours before the close time but really hurting. 

The temps dropped into the low 30's; and felt much colder from the wind chill on the descent. Normally put the bike in 50/11 gears and bomb down the hill under full steam. Rolling down, not pedaling, there was no way to generate heat, other than get on the brakes to slow down and/or pedal against the brakes to stay warm. Obviously it took much longer to get down than normal.

Cold and fighting off the sleep monster, I roll into the Vail Chevron about 0400 to warm up. I was toast and decided to try to get a Uber to the finish. One pops up, but it cancelled and no others were found. I pressed on for the last 20 miles and finally reached the hotel control stop in Tucson at 0604. 24 hours of two-speed riding and cold did me in. Even though Debby and her sister Kathy drove to Tucson Saturday with a back-up bike and put it in my room; I did not think I could get the backup bike ready to ride (it was on a hook in the garage with flat tires and no pedals), get cleaned up, sleep a few hours, and finish the remaining 200km before the cutoff time at 10pm on Sunday. I pulled the pin and set the alarm to wake up an hour before checkout time at 11.

The bike is at Curbside getting a new derailleur and I'm browsing the RUSA site looking for another 600!

Steve Atkins

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