2023 Paris Brest Paris Randonneur

French cows at Sunset

August 2023

Ride Report

Paris Brest Paris Randonneur is the Super Bowl/Olympics of unsupported long-distance cycling sport. Held almost continuously every four years since 1891, this was the 20th PBP and my 5th start in this great event (see ride reports for 2007, 2011, 2015, and 2019).

In each of my previous PBP’s, I elected to start with the 84 hour time limit group that starts early Monday morning around 0500. This time I selected the 90 hour time limit group and started on Sunday evening at 1830. Grab a bidon and some pocket food and join me and 6800 of my closest friends from around the world as we take on PBP 2023!

Travel and check-in

Relaxing in the LAX lounge

Of all the travel nightmare horror stories, losing luggage on the way to an event is the worst. In addition, many of the European connection hubs are still experiencing delays, cancellations, and dreaded lost luggage.  Because of board commitments, I couldn’t travel until Wednesday evening before the event. Not much time to recover from delays or lost luggage. So we found a non-stop flight from LAX to Paris that departed Thursday afternoon and arrived in Paris Friday morning. A short hop to LAX from Phoenix on Southwest Airlines Wednesday evening and overnight at the LAX airport Hilton and we were in business.

Love the non-stop to Paris CDG airport

Our Air France flight was lovely and we arrived on time and with all our luggage! We used UberX to take us to our apartment in Versailles. The plan was for Debby to stay in Versailles while I rode the PBP. It’s about 23 miles to the start from there, but there is train service. Our apartment was not ready, but we checked our luggage and set out on foot to explore the neighborhood and get some lunch.

Our apartment building on the right

Kitchen/great room

The room was ready in the early afternoon and I put the bike together as we settled into our room.

Traditional pre-ride pizza!

We headed back into town and enjoyed a great dinner at an outdoor cafe. 

Saturday I took the train (the station was minutes from the apartment) to Rambouillet to check in for the event and to leave my drop bag with the Randonneurs USA bag drop team. 

Jenn and Rashid at check-in

There was no ‘safety’ check this year during the check-in process so it was not necessary to bring the bike. But it was a few kilometers from the train station in Rambouillet and I figured the ride back to Versailles would be a good shake-down ride. Just arriving at the check-in, I bumped into Jenn and Rashid from Colorado, they had already checked in and were heading back to Versailles!

English speakers check in at the barn on the left

Stopping for a Coke on the ride back to Versailles 

Check-in was easy, and my PBP Jersey fit perfectly! Soon I was on my way back to Versailles following an easy 23 mile route along quiet country roads. Getting back we wandered into town for dinner and to call it a day.

Sunday and Start

We attended morning mass and found breakfast after in town and just relaxed for most of the day. I was starting in the K wave at 1830. There are so many riders, they start in waves of 500 every 15 minutes! I considered riding to the start to ‘warm up’ but knew I would be in several lines waiting for the start and safety check and the warm-up benefit would disappear before the start. So I took the train.

Riders packed in the train!

Many other riders were also on their way to Rambouillet on the train, and we had to flip the bikes up on the rear wheels to fit on the train. Luckily, I was on the ‘express’ and it was non-stop to Rambouillet!

The K wave corral

Arriving at the start area, the early waves were already leaving. I found a shaded grassy area near the ‘K’ wave corral and stretched out on the lawn. I wandered around the start area and found the Jenn, Rashid, Michael and Pascal from Colorado in the ‘J’ corral. They would start at 1815, in the wave before mine, and we would meet again several times over the next few days!

Yours truly

Tom Altemus from Arizona was starting in the 84 hour group Monday morning and he was checking out the 90 hour starting groups and shot this picture as we were about to start!

Near the back of the K group, ready to start

After completing the safety check we were put into the final start chute. We rolled out of the start area and soon were in open French countryside.

About an hour after the start

Huge pace lines

With daylight time, sunset was not until nearly 9 pm. Pace lines were large and riding at a reasonable pace so I joined right in, thank you very much!

Into the night!

Pace lines continued into the night. Very easy to find the route, simply follow the long line of tail-lights! I don’t think I was on the front of any pace line for the whole way to the Mortagne control. Out bound it was not a required control stop, but well into the ride and I planned to stop there and get some food.

Control times and ride plan

I made this nifty control sheet, hid some columns, and got it to fit in a 3x5 card format. ‘Laminated’ it with packing tape and clipped it to my bars. It started to come loose, so I put it in my pocket. I think I lost it on the way to Mortagne when I put on my reflective gear! No problem Debby took a this picture of the copy I left with her and she texted it to me, problem solved! I also arrived a bit ahead of my 80 hour ride plan, so that was good!

I had some dinner in the control and returned to my bike. I had left my gloves and hat on the aero bars when I went inside. When I returned my gloves and hat were gone! Kicking my self for leaving them out, and thinking someone had helped themselves (I have had lights disappear from the bike at controls at prior PBPs) to them. I returned to the control to buy some new ones. No gloves, but they had a neck gaitor that would work in a pinch so I bought that.

Ready to go, a nearby rider pointed to my hat and gloves on the ground near his bike and asked if they were mine! They were, first late night mental error of the ride. I almost rode out without them!

Look who I found in Villaines

The Villaines control is at 200 kilometers into the ride and I had planned on a sleep stop there. It was 0342 Monday morning when I ran into Pascal and Michael in the restaurant. They planned on taking a 1 hour sleep break. I was on schedule and could afford a 2 hour nap. So we shoveled in some food and headed to the dormirs to book cots.

Monday Morning

Heading back to the cafe through the bikes 

Coffee and pastry to get going 

I got a solid 90 minutes of sleep and woke just before the attendant arrived to wake me up. It was 0620 and I grabbed another breakfast at the Villaines cafe before heading out. Still ahead of schedule I was feeling good. Although your may notice I had my reflective vest on inside-out. I did notice that before I got back on the bike and headed out with the all-important reflective tape facing out!

Heading west at sunrise

I rolled out of the control as the sun was rising and made good progress. By now the huge pace lines had dissipated and I rode mostly alone.

PBP display in Ribay

Many folks along the way erected PBP signs and displays encouraging riders that ranged from simple posters or paint on the roadway, to large and sometimes elaborate displays. This one in Ribay, an hour or so from Villaines was especially interesting!

Typical coffee/water stop

Even though the PBP is nearly 4 days long, you don’t need to purchase water for your bottles. Locals along the way set up stands by their homes and provide water, coffee, and snacks to the riders and most will not accept any payments. If you stopped at every stand, you would never complete the ride in the time limit.

We meet again in Fougeres

I rolled into the Fougeres control at 1040 and hit the restaurant for lunch. Pascal, Michael and a volunteer from their Rocky Mountain Cycling Club in Denver were also there and we enjoyed lunch together. I was feeling a bit sleepy and let Pascal and Michael head out, I planned a taking a short nap in the shade/grass before continuing. I rested for about 30 minutes, but it was too noisy to fall asleep so I got up and headed out.

With Pascal and Michael at 1551

Event photo at 1818

2107 on Monday

After Fourgeres I rolled through Tinteniac around 1300 and Loudeac  at 1900. I found my drop bag and changed clothes and reloaded they food supplies on the bike. Pascal and Michael arrived about the same time and we rolled out together. My initial plan had my second sleep stop in Brest, but it looked like we would arrive in Carhaix around 0100 on Tuesday morning and we decided to take a large dinner and sleep stop there. We had to wait a bit to get checked into a cot, but we finally were checked in for a two-hour nap. They provided a light disposable sleeping bag that I thought was just a blanket. I put on my knee warmers, SmartWool 250 shirt, eye covers, ear plugs, and watch cap and caught another solid 90 minutes of sleep.

Tuesday morning

We had plenty of food from our reload in Loudeac, so we set out right away into a very misty morning.

Michael on the descent from Col de Trevezel 

I was wearing all my clothing here!

There is a long climb to Col de Trevezel, then mostly descending rollers to the edge of Brest. In the morning mist, it was quite cold with the wind chill from the 30+ mph descent and we all started to get shiver induced bike wobble, so we pulled off on the descent and put on every piece of clothing we had (250 wool shirt, jersey, vest, raincoat, watch cap, balaclava and long gloves)! 

Ruins in Sizun

We rolled into Sizun shortly after dawn and stopped for double expressos and some frites at a cafe on the main square. Continuing on we rode through several forests and finally entered the very urban and busy town of Brest. The 2023 route in and out of Brest was the reverse of prior years, and for me it seemed like we would never reach the control.

We finally did and Pascal’s cousin met us at the control for breakfast/lunch. He rode his mountain bike with us as we headed out town.

The team leaving Brest

Half-way done!

After an obligatory selfie shot with the new Brest bridge in the background, we headed out and up out of Brest.

Sometimes the best photos happen at a natural break

We were low on water and filled up here!

Beautiful day for a bike ride

Tide was out

No GPS necessary, just follow the signs!

Left ankle problems

Somewhere along the way on Monday my left ankle started bothering me. Not sure why, perhaps my reflective ankle band was too tight and caused some irritation. I ditched the bands and took some Advil, at least it didn’t get worse. On the PBP it’s not a matter of if something is going to hurt, it’s a matter of what is going to hurt! This was manageable, although I couldn’t get out of the saddle as much as I would have liked.

Massage stop!

For Michael, it was his sciatic nerve that flamed up due to a misaligned saddle! Even thought he corrected it, the damage was done. It was really bothering him and as we rode up this long grade an angel of mercy appeared in a RV. Maureen, a Belgian sports therapist was giving roadside massages. We put Michael on the table and she went right to work. It would have been nice for us all to get some treatment, but there is a 90 hour time limit we were starting to flirt with, so we pressed on.

French cows by day

Pascal enjoying coffee and pastry in a village

With our various ailments we decided to ride at our own pace for much of the day, but we would never get too far apart and would see each other as we checked into controls or found good rest stops!

Farm ruins

Dinner in Loudeac

I rolled into Loudeac at about 11pm and went right to the restaurant for a late dinner. It may not look good, but the noodles, omelet and dark gravy was delicious, carb heavy and easy to digest. I added a yogurt and orange soda to complete the food groups! I would start shoveling in more pasta as the ride went on. I also fought the urge to hurry out and only eat part of the meal, but forced myself to slow down and finish.

Line leaving the restaurant

It was a good choice going to the restaurant right after checking-in at the control. The line was out the door as I was leaving. I proceeded to the drop bag area, found a WC (toilet) and changed clothes and used my large body wipes to clean-up and head back out into the night. At this point I was only an hour or so ahead of the control close time, no time to sleep, so I pressed on into the night.

2 am Coffee stop 

I had two coffees with 5 sugars each at this stop

Coffee is free, just send a postcard from home!

Leaving Loudeac just before 0100 the sleep monster started to raise its head. Luckily as I rolled into a village there was a swarm of cyclists outside a garage attached to a home. I went inside, found a chair and had two strong coffees loaded with sugar and took a 30 minute break. I took a photo of the address and will send a post card when I return to Arizona!

Wednesday morning

Breakfast in Tinteniac

Michael and Pascal join the breakfast party

Somehow I rode through the night and arrived at Tintineac 45 minutes before its close time of 0815. I’m not sure if I slept that night, but I am wearing my eye covers, and look more than a bit sleepy here. I do know that I didn’t bother trying to get a cot in Tinteniac with their less than warm disposable sleep sacks!

Lunch in Fougeres

The pasta was doing the trick so more with some fruit and protein in Fourgeres. I was not making much progress against the closing times, but I was not not falling behind either. So I just settled into my own pace and enjoyed the ride.

Cows enjoying the shade

Riding with Micheal and Pascal

Throughout the day and the rest of the ride, I would run into Michael and Pascal. They were targeting a finish time very close to the 90 hours to earn an award that recognizes utilization of most most of the time limit.

Too bad my bottles were already full!

These guys were especially enthusiastic and showed off their guns as I rolled by. I only wished my bottles needed a refill, or I had time to make another stop!

Paris Brest Pastry in Ribay

I remember there being a frites stand in Ribay (near the Villaines control). This year it was a huge tent with frites and the Paris Brest pastry. The pastry resembles a bike wheel and was delicious! I figured I had plenty of time since Villaines was only a few kilometers away so I took my time. 

I was almost done, when I noticed a sign with the kilometers to go to Paris being much more than the 200k from Villaines. Oh no, I was 20km from Villaines and I thought the control was closing an hour before it actually did. I hopped on the bike and proceeded to hammer for the next 45 minutes to beat the control close time.

It was hard up and down riding but I rolled into the control with 20 minutes to spare, but I rode much harder than I should have, burned way too many matches, and started to notice some tightening of my neck muscles. It was on my way to Villaines in 2007 when I was afflicted with Shermers Neck!

I tried to sleep here in Villaines but it was too noisy

Villaines is a rocking control stop. At all hours of the night and day hundreds of towns people turn out and cheer the riders coming and going from the control. In additional an announcer on a PA system announces the names and nationalities of the riders. Fun but not conducive to a grass nap! 

Still very busy around the close time

Leaving Villaines

Wide open riding 

Sign encouraging local hero’s

Late night free coffee and cake 

Next stop was Mortagne about 50 miles away. There were lots of rollers on good road surface and I made good time during daylight and tried to ride conservatively. As the sun set, the going was slower and I made a coffee stop or two and finally arrived about 30 minutes after midnight. I had a two hour time cushion, so I had another meal and went outside near the bike corral and stretched out under a tree. It was noisy but I fell right asleep and caught a solid 45 minutes of sleep and left a few minutes before the control closed.

Thursday morning and finish

The road to Dreux

Open cafe

At least I was awake…

… barely

The next segment was only 48 miles, but it had lots of climbing and my neck was starting to bother me, especially on descents. We rolled into a village about 0500 and I really needed a coffee. That’s a double expresso in that cup with about 5 sugars! With the dawn light only a few hours away, I pressed on in the darkness, with a packet of Haribo gummy snacks for the push back to Dreux.

Dreux control

Velomobiles in Dreux ready for the final push

I rolled into Dreux just after 0700 and had two hours to spare before the closing control time and had a good breakfast. I again ran into Pascal and Michael, and also Paul from the Rocky Mountain Cycling Club (RMCC). I headed out just before them, but would see them again, as my pace was slowing as I dealt with my sore neck.

The last 28 miles took about 2.5 hours to cover, not a blistering pace, but including a pastry stop, fast enough to get me into the finish at 1037, just under 2 hours to spare against the 90 hour time limit!

Unofficial control times

To my surprise Debby had taken the train to Rambouillet and cheered me on as I crossed the finish line. We grabbed a soda and waited for the RMCC guys to cross the finish line. Feeling really tired, and not wanting to wait in another food line, we said our congratulations and goodbyes and headed to the train station to pick up the drop bag and head back to our apartment in Versailles.

Debby bought some food as I took a three hour nap. We were headed to our next adventure the following morning, so I needed to get up and get the bike disassembled and back in the box for the fast train to Barcelona.

After my 2019 DNF (did not finish) I was determined to get this one done. My first 1200 was the PBP in 2007, and as I told the RMCC guys during the ride, the 2023 finish would make a good bookend for my 1200 experiences. Will I do another 1200? That question remains unanswered!

Hope you enjoyed the ride!

Steve Atkins

Click here for GPS data: First 550 miles; last 220 miles.