My bike problem (Randonneuring) can be traced back to 2005 when Deb and I celebrated our 25th wedding anniversary on a 12 day bike tour that included three mountain stages of the Tour de France. It was such a great trip, we put the Spring Classics, Giro d'Italia, and Vuelta Espana on the to do list. Ten years later we finally are able to check one of those off the list!
We found Cycling Camp San Diego's Belgium Spring Classics Tour via a Google search, and quickly determined this would be the trip for us, and it was! It was based around 3 of the Spring Classic professional races; Amstel Gold, Fleche Wallonne, and Liege-Bastogne-Liege. Included in the tour was entry in to the amateur events associated with each race. We decided to arrive a few days early and headed to Amsterdam to adjust to the time change and visit the nearby tulip fields/gardens.
Amsterdam
After arriving in Brussels, we stored the bike case and most of our luggage in the airport lockers, and caught the train to Amsterdam. This was our second visit to Amsterdam, and Deb really wanted to see the spring flowers in Keukenhof. We arrived Tuesday afternoon, too late for the museums, but early enough to set out on foot, tour the city, plan our trip to Keukenhof, and try to shake off the jet lag.
Heading to the train station
Bike Parking at the Amsterdam Train Station
We were up early and headed to the train station to grab a train to nearby Haarlem. We found a bike rental shop there and rented city bikes for the ride to Keukenhof. It was about a 10 mile trip along canal paths and through production flower fields to the Gardens in Keukenhof.
In the tulip fields
Keukenhof Gardens
The ride to the gardens was fantastic! As we neared the Keukenhof Gardens we left the canal banks and joined what seemed like an endless caravan of tour buses and cars headed to the Gardens. Happily, the bike racks were near the west gate and we were soon in the gardens. It was beautiful with flower displays separated by sidewalks overflowing with tourists! We spotted a cafe in the gardens, and after enjoying a snack of coffee, beer, and apple pie, the crowds didn't seem so bad.
We made our way through the gardens and decided to head back. Leaving the crowds behind and mounting our city bikes, we were treated to a strong tail wind and soft pedaled all the way back to Haarlem!
Nice tailwind on the way back
The bike route generally followed canals
We returned our bikes and took a lap through Haarlem. We found a cafe on the main square and relaxed prior to catching a train back to Amsterdam. We enjoyed a fantastic meal at a nearby seafood restaurant, and with the daylight time, we were able to wander around this charming town for several hours. We agreed this was a great way to start our tour.
We were up early and back on the train to Brussels. We would join the CCSD at the arrival level at the airport. After transferring to the local train, gathering up 40 euros in coins to retrieve our luggage, we found Rob and Jo of CCSD and our tour companions. We were a small group; 9 riders, 2 guides, and we fit easily into a crew truck and passenger van. Those of us needing rental bikes took the truck to the rental shop. We picked up bikes (it turned out Deb's was too small) and joined the rest of the group in our first town, Tongeren Belgium. We arrived at the hotel, assembled the bikes, and set out for a shake-down ride that covered a large loop around the town.
Shake down ride in Tongeren
Our first full day of riding would cover 50 miles and take us to the town of Valkenburg and back. The Amstel Gold Race includes 3 laps and finishes near the top of the famous Cauberg climb in Valkenburg.
Crossing into Holland
The roads were in great shape, and while is was quite chilly in the morning, the sun was out and the weather was perfect. After some urban riding through Maastricht, we found ourselves on the Amstel Gold route and coasting into Valkenburg.
On the Amstel Gold Race course
Its Holland, not Michigan!
Downtown Valkenburg
We found the group at a sidewalk cafe, and after snack of coffee, beer, and apple pancake, we made our way to the Amstel Gold Experience and nearby Pearl Izumi outlet store before heading back to the hotel to rest up for the Toerversie (Tour Version) Amstel Gold Race.
At the base of the Cauberg
Amstel Gold Experience
After cleaning up at the Hotel, we toured the Tonengren Cathedral before piling into the van to tour the nearby Bink brewery. It was a nice tour with great beer. The owner/brewmaster entertained us with an interesting history of Belgian brewing and we enjoyed several of his tasty products with fresh bread, cheese, and meats.
Bink Brewery Historic Tavern
Tonengren Cathedral
We returned to the hotel, had a full meal, and retired early.
Two of us decided to ride the Amstel Gold long version (250km) so we left early with the bike van. Larry and I set off together, but were soon separated in the mass of confusion around one of the first turns.
The start of the Amstel Gold Tour Version
The riding was fantastic on good roads. The weather was perfect, cold at start and sunny and cool for the rest of the day.
Time to lose some layers
First feed station
Since there are 4 different lengths for this event, the route is a little tricky. Often we would share the route with other riders, then split off. At one point it seemed riders were coming and going in all directions! Even with my Garmin, I somehow missed a turn and ended up riding the Cauberg 3 times. Eventually, I ended up repeating the first loop, and made my way the the Cauberg the last time covering 200km and climbing over 10,000 feet!
Our finisher medals/bottle openers!
Deb rode the 65km version which also included a trip up the Cauberg, and was waiting at the finish line when I came through the last time!
We returned to Tonengren for a group dinner to celebrate our day.
Sunday morning (race day) we rode in the van back to the Valkenburg area. Deb and I took our bikes and made the 10km trip to Valkenburg. The town was packed with race fans eager to watch the racers come through. We did a little shopping and rode back to the van. The CCSD folks picked great spot where the race would come through several times, close to a cafe with a TV so we could continue to watch the action!
We positioned ourselves at the top of the hill, where the team songniers were at the ready with food, water, and wheels. An errant water bottle rolled into the field and CRASH the group went down right in front of us! One of the Cannondale riders ended up being loaded into the ambulance!
We could see the race approach from miles away
Deb's Orica bottle, my beer bottle
After the race, Rob arranged for us to return Deb's bike to the rental shop in Brussels. It was a better fit, not perfect, but we were appreciative of the side trip. We drove back into Tongeren for a group dinner.
With our bags packed, we would ride to the next town, Villers Ste. Gertrude. It was about 45 miles, with some steep climbing. Deb did awesome and the views were tremendous.
Spectacular ride to Villers Ste. Gertrude
The route included mostly farm roads and a few trails. On one of the trails, my rear tire blew. It was a sidewall cut, but I was able to 'boot' the tire with an old Powerbar wrapper. That repair held for the rest of the trip!
Better, but still too small bike
WWII Memorial
We loved the low traffic farm roads
Historic Durbuy
We arrived in Durbuy for a late lunch and with some very steep climbing to get out of town, we rolled into our second hotel in Villers Ste. Gertrude just before dinner. The innkeeper prepared a great meal and we retired early for the next sportive.
A local bike club sponsors the Andennes classic that covers much of the Fleche Wallonne route, including the famous Mur de Huy climb. There are three versions, several of us selected the 145km version and we were up early to the start in Andennes.
Andennes Classic Route
The route was easy to follow due to the large number of riders and directional symbols painted on the pavement before and after each turn.
On the Andennes route
There were feeding stops about every 50km, and I took full advantage of each one, becoming especially fond of the waffles!
The Andennes classic included parts of the Fleche
After the last feed at the top of the Mur, I joined a group of Dutch Belgian club riders for the run into the finish. They were especially interested in my coupler bike, and very happy that an American decided to spend a 'cycling holiday' in their country!
Belgian Bike Club
Directional symbols on the route
The ride started and finished at a sports center (pool, track, football pitch, and bar). I found our group in the bar and enjoyed a few recovery beverages before heading back to the hotel.
On race day, we took the van back to Huy and parked at the start/finish line at the top of the Mur de Huy. We watched the women's race start and walked down into Huy. We hoped to find a bike shop and find a replacement tire. The only store in town was closed, in observance of race day!
The men would climb the Mur 3 times. We found a great spot and waited near the base of the Mur. Soon the break flashed by, followed a few minutes later by the main field!
The Break comes through first
At the base of the Mur de Huy
Main field, just before the crash
Just as the field passed in front of us, a large group went down. The Cannondale Team Leader, Dan Martin went down hard and did not finish the race. We literally had to press up against the building so the racers could use the sidewalk to go around the carnage!
Dan Martin went down hard
We ended up with a Garmin Camelback water bottle that came flying out of Martin's bike when he hit the deck!
The Mur de Huy
After the race cleared we walked up the Mur de Huy and found a place to watch the women finish and the men complete their second run up the Mur. We found refreshments at the top and walked back down to the 250m to go banner and waited for the final pass of the pros.
Valverde in Control with 250m to go
The break was caught and the peloton arrived in one group with Alejandro Valverde in front and in complete control. He launched his sprint with 100m to go and finished a full bike length ahead of the field!
We regrouped at the vans and returned to Durbuy for a light meal before heading back to the hotel.
The next day the group headed to the La Chouffe brewery for a long day of riding and another brewery tour. Deb and I decided to cover part of the route, and head to the town of Manhay. It turned out to be a great decision.
Ardennes forest
We had a great day!
The forest was beautiful and the roads were perfect for us. Gentle grades and low traffic.
Many memorials from grateful Belgians
Memorial in Manhay
We rolled into Manhay looking for lunch and an ATM. We found the ATM, but none of the restaurants were open for lunch, but they were ready to serve coffee and beer. I enjoyed a couple La Chouffe's in honor of the brewery tour we missed. We picked up some snacks at the bakery and headed back to the hotel.
No lunch, but plenty of Beer and Coffee
Streets of Manhay
Villers St. Gertrude
Our innkeeper prepared a Belgian barbeque for our final meal here and it was a great way to complete our stay in Villers.
We packed our bags and left Villers early for the 22 mile ride to Spa. Deb and I left before the main group, and were the first to find the road under construction. We doubled back and met the group as they prepared a detour. We joined Larry as we worked out a different way to Spa. It turned out be be more like 30 miles and 3000 feet of climbing!
On the ride to Spa
Our B&B in Spa was 1 block from the race route
We arrived mid-afternoon, checked into the hotel and walked into town to have a late lunch/early dinner. The Liege Bastogne Liege (LBL) Challenge rides the full route plus a few bonus kilometers totaling 270km, so I was looking for a full meal. We found it at a great little sidewalk cafe.
Pasta dinner before the LBL Challenge
The forecast was for rain and temperatures in the 40's; finally spring classic weather! It is an open start, but we left with a large group of riders early Saturday morning, riding through the rain on the wet streets of Liege, it was great!
Heading out in the rain
Wet cobbles and a photo bomber in Liege
With all the miles so far on the tour, the rain, the grit, and forgetting to lube my chain before the event, I noticed my drive train making noise and skipping gears. I tried several times to stop and adjust the rear derailleur but it would not behave. Luckily, there were mechanics at the Bastogne feed zone and they adjusted and lubed my machine, it behaved much better after that!
The turnaround in Bastogne
Soon after leaving Bastogne, the skies opened up and we found ourselves in a heavy downpour. As we reached the first of the 8 final climbs, the skies started to clear.
Clearing sky's near the finish
I rolled into the finish area after the course had closed. Lucky for me Larry and Jason purchased a beer for me before the bar closed!
Post ride rewards
Deb had arranged a spa day in Spa, so we were both in our favorite elements! We returned to Spa, arriving late, we grabbed some food from a convenience store and returned to our room.
On race day, we piled into the vans and drove to Liege. We walked through the start area as the teams were preparing for the race.
After the start, we toured the town before piling back into the vans and driving back to Spa. We arrived with plenty of time before the race would go through, so we walked into town, did a little shopping and returned to our corner and waited for the race to come through.
The Break rolls through
The break rolled through followed closely by the main field. We walked back to the hotel and watched the rest of the race on TV. After the race we cleaned and packed up the bikes and had a final group dinner in Spa.
It was a trip to remember. We had a great group of riders and the CCSD folks put together a great tour that we really enjoyed.
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