Cyclewhitney: 2021 Prague to Budapest Cycling Cruise

Ride report

August 2021

Hungarian Parliament on the Danube in Budapest

Ever been on a river cruise? How about a cycling tour? Both sound great, but what if you combined the best of both and created a Cycling Cruise! That is what Santana Adventures does and this was our first Santana Adventure. Instead of small groups with van support moving from hotel to hotel. Santana charters the whole ship and fills it with eager cyclists. Santana controls the ship's itinerary so the ship moves to maximize the excellent cycling. Multiple GPS routes are available for morning and afternoon rides. The ship re-positions for lunch, then select an afternoon route and meet the boat further downstream, or just stay on board for a relaxing afternoon. With over 150 cyclists on board, there were lots of folks on all the routes! Emergency van support was available (we didn't need it), and we had lots of company on the rides.

The best part, our fantastic stateroom moved along with us, so no daily packing and unpacking. On this cruise, daily laundry service was complimentary for our cycling clothes!

Sound good? Lets get started!

Prague pre-tour

Vtlava River in Prague

We signed up for the Santana pre-tour that put us in Prague a few days before the start of the cruise. It was an opportunity to meet others on the cruise, take advantage of prearranged tours, and adjust to the time change. Lets get going!

Old Jewish Cemetery

Names of those lost from Prague

Holocaust Museum

Tomas, a fantastic tour guide!


Changing of the guard at Prague Castle

St. Nicholas Church

Prague from the Castle District

Typical street in Lesser Town below the Castle

Vivaldi Four Seasons concert

Folk dancers at the welcome dinner

Two full days of touring ended with the official welcome dinner at our hotel in Prague. Local dancers entertained the group while our host Bill McCready provided an overview of our next week of touring.

Day 1: Passau Germany

Best way to start a trip; brewery tour!

To start the cruise, we need to transfer to the Danube River, about a 3 hour bus ride from Prague. To break up the trip, how about a brewery tour and early lunch at the Pilsen Urquell brewery!

Very warm here, the beer is brewing!

Passport, temperature, CDC card/Test check before boarding

Very happy with our stateroom!

After settling in, its time for a light lunch on board, then head up to the sun deck to put the bikes together!

Time to build the bikes (before)

After!

We met in the Panorama Bar for the welcome cocktail and safety briefing. Notably this was the first cruise for this ship/crew since the beginning of the pandemic. In order to be approved by the EU for cruising, there were Covid rules to go over as well. Masks required in the indoor common spaces, no buffets, and assigned seating for meals for the duration of the cruise. No big deal; the crew and guests were very happy to be able to cruse again!

Then down to the dining room for another great meal to close out the day!

Day 2: Passau-Aschach-Linz

Bill's route map for the day

Into the daily routine; breakfast at 6:30, route talk at 7:15, on the bikes by 8:00. The route talk included high tech GPS tracks and a handy low tech route map. Today was billed as easy miles on bike paths along the Danube river. Downhill with a tailwind was the order of the day!

Larry and Kris set the pace on the path along the river

Seb (rider behind Debby)

We set off from the ship a little before 8 and soon were caught by Larry and Kris on a Bike Friday tandem. We jumped in their slipstream and headed down river at a great pace. A German cyclo-tourist named Sebastian (Seb) joined our group. He noticed my Paris-Brest-Paris jersey and we talked about the event. He was riding a new bike with full panniers and planned to follow the Danube 'for a while' then head north toward the Baltic Sea.

Morning coffee break in Austria

Alas the pace was a little strong so we bid the group farewell and stopped at a lovely cafe for a mid-morning coffee and cake break!

Farmhouse built just above the flood plain

Bike ferry crossing the Danube

Next stop would be the bike ferry at about 25 miles into the ride. For 2 Euros each, the skipper packed as many bikes and people into boats as possible and we traversed to the other side. Continuing on, we ride into the Schlogen Gorge. Only room for a bike path here, which was great, except that the bike path was closed ahead due a rock slide. We could either take a direct route out of the gorge to the lunch stop at Aschach or rely on 2 additional boat ferries to cross and return to the bike path beyond the closure.

Uphill section due to route closure

We selected the direct route and prepared to climb. We didn't know it at the time, but the climb was 2.2 miles at an 8% average grade. It took us 35 minutes to clear that section. It was tough, but Deb climbed like a champ. Hitting the top, it was all downhill to Aschach and lunch.

Downhill through beautiful farmland to Aschach

And its good thing that it was downhill. Temperatures at the base of the climb in the gorge were a perfect 72 degrees. At the top of the climb it was nearing 90! We cleared the next 5 miles in about 15 minutes!

With Seb in Aschach

We beat the boat to the dock, and our new friend Seb was there taking a break in the shade! We had time visit before the ship returned and we went back on board for lunch.

Deb decided to call it a day after lunch, and why not, after 40 tough miles with climbing and heat it was an easy decision. I headed back out for more. With only 20 miles to the evening destination in Linz, and 3.5 hours before ship reached Linz, I decided to add a few miles and head back up the hill for a some afternoon training before rejoining the route to Linz.

Afternoon loop back up the hill

Chasing the ship to Linz

After the climb, it was back on the bike path for some fast riding to try and catch the ship downstream before it reached Linz. It had to clear a lock and I figured that would be a good place to catch it. It was just leaving as I crossed the lock. The bike path went back upstream for a mile or so, then back downstream toward Linz. I rolled up to the dock just as the crew were securing the lines to another cruise ship at the dock. We were only there for a 30 minute window, so we simply crossed over on the sundeck of the first ship to reach ours!

Back to the room for a shower and then head to the Panorama Lounge for a recovery drink! The ship set sail for Grein and we enjoyed another great meal to complete the day.

Day 3: Grein-Emmersdorf-Krems

Amedeus Queen leaving Grein

The ship re-positioned during the night and we awoke in Gein Austria. Our route today would take us along the Donauradweg (translates Danube bike path) to the Melk Abby for a tour and lunch on the boat, to Burnruine Aggstein (castle) and finally Krems for an evening walk to a Heurigen and wine cellar for food and wine tasting. Lets get going!

Jay and Alisa on the Donauradweg!

We headed out with our table mates and tandem teams of Jay and Alisa and Stephen and Sue. After missing a turn and adding a kilometer or two to the day, we were back at it and riding along the calm waters of the Danube. Our tandem friends had the hammer down, so we settled into our own pace and enjoyed a fantastic morning

One of many tributary crossings on the radweg

Stephen and Sue below the Melk Abby

Bill McCready handing out the Abbey Tour tickets

We arrived at the Abbey in time join Jay/Alisa and Stephen/Sue for the tour of the Abbey. It was spectacular, but no photos were allowed inside! We finished the tour and made our way back to the ship for lunch.

Narrow bike path leaving Emmersdorf

1.2 miles of 20% climbing, 'Yes Please!'

Next up the castle tour. Buses were arranged to shuttle the riders up to the castle for the tour. Riding was highly discouraged. It was a narrow, but paved 20% climb for a solid mile. I was more interested in the climb than the tour so I skipped the bus line and headed up the climb!

At the top

Since Debby decided to skip the afternoon ride, I decided to skip the castle tour and headed back down to meet the ship when it arrived in Krems at 4:30.

The Queen sails by while I wait for the ferry!

Quietly crossing the river!

I arrived at Spitz just as the ferry had departed. While we were waiting for its return, the Queen cruised by! The ferry used the current of the river and leverage from a fixed cable crossing the river to go back and fourth, without motor power!

Wachau Valley wine country

Riding through Krems

Back on the radweg, its hammer time to again try and beat the boat to Krems! The route leaves the river for a nice run through Wachau Valley and into Krems. Its spectacular riding and I again rolled into the dock area just as the crew were securing the lines.


At the panorama lounge downloading GPS routes

Clean up and back to the lounge for a recovery beverage and to download tomorrow's routes and get ready for the walking tour to a Heurigen for some food tasting.

After the Heurigen heading back to the ship

We avoided the wine tasting, and enjoyed the local food tasting at the Heurigen. All that was left to do was return to the ship for another great meal!

Day 4: Vienna

Overnight the ship sailed on and we awoke at the Nussdorf docking station in Vienna. Today would be a 'rest day' touring the Schoenbrunn Palace and attending a Marionette showing an abbreviated version of Mozart's Magic Flute. Of course an afternoon ride was available for those who couldn't spend a day off the bike (me).

Marionette demonstration

We boarded buses and headed to Schoenbrunn Palace. Our group was second to see the Marionette demonstration and 'opera.' The small stringed performers presented an abbreviated version of Mozart's Magic Flute that was narrated by an 18 inch stringed version of the master himself. When the theater darkened, and the performance started, the figures seemed to grow to life size as the show continued on.

Schoenbrunn Palace - Stunning but no photos allowed inside!

Sue wanted a small snack

After the palace tour, the bus dropped most of the group off at the Vienna Opera House for a day of touring and shopping.

On foot in Vienna

Yours truly, stayed on the bus to return to the ship for lunch and an afternoon ride through the Vienna Woods!

Vienna Woods

The ride was a short loop with a climb into the nearby woods. With some extra time, little road traffic, cool temperatures and lots of shade, it was a great area to get in some hill repeats and work off some of those heavy meals.

Dirty kit before

Back on the ship before the shopping crew arrived, the magic bags were again at work. Dirty kit in,

Clean kit after

Freshly folded kit returned!

Team Vienna Kit

The shopping crew found these great t-shirts, while touring Vienna. In true tandem spirit, matching dinner kit seemed in order!

Day 5: Vienna - Hainburg-Bratislava

Leaving Vienna

Today, we leave Vienna and head for a bikers beer garden for morning refreshments and with CDC Vaccination cards and passports in hand we cross the old Iron Curtain into Slovakia.

Ellen and Sam at the beer garden

First we need to get to the beer garden for a mid-morning snack and the first route choice of the day. We can stay on the Donauradweg and endure some gravel sections, or take a slightly longer paved route. Nothing like a radler and a doughnut at 10am!

The slightly longer paved route

We chose the paved route, and while there was more traffic, the scenery was great and the tailwind was even better! We made great time and soon crossed the Danube and rejoined the radweg. A short route takes us to the ship for lunch, and a longer loop adds a few miles to a historic arch. We decide to head to ship and again arrive just as the crew secured the lines.

Historic Roman Arch on the morning long route

With an hour before lunch, I decide to backtrack and head to the arch at a fast pace, returning in time for lunch.

Slovakia Border Checkpoint

The afternoon ride leaves Hainburg and Austria and heads into Slovakia. Slovakia required proof of a negative Covid test or vaccination record for entry. In addition, we were required to register with their health department prior to entry. I rolled up to the border, on the bike path, with passport and documentation at the ready. While the cars were lined up, there was no one on the bike path, so I continued on! There were several border guards taking a lunch/beer break at a table behind the checkpoint, obviously they were off duty and I rode on through.

Surveillance Tower/Restaurant in Bratislava

It was a short run to Bratislava, and the rolling countryside soon gave way to a bustling urban center. The route followed the Donauradweg through the city to the cruise terminals adjacent to old town. Later we would learn that the restaurant atop the soviet era bridge was formerly a surveillance post from which the government could monitor the comings and goings of the port area.

Beautiful pedestrian areas in old town

Monuments and sculptures abound

I arrived well ahead of ship so had time to complete a short loop through the pedestrian area of old town. It was quite beautiful and relatively uncrowded. Heading back to the port the ship was executing a 180 degree turn to prepare to 'drift' in to dock stern first with the bow pointing upstream. It took the crew the normal 15-30 minutes to secure the ship and allow boarding for cyclists and bikes!

Slovakian fried cheese and frites!

With several hours before dinner, and several hours since lunch, yours truly, was getting a little hungry and cranky! We found this great little bistro and ordered snacks and refreshments before setting out for a little shopping and self-guided walking tour (Our Rick Steves Budapest guide had a chapter on Bratislava)!

'Traditional' Slovak Restaurant

We lingered a little too long at the bistro, and many of the smaller shops were closing. We did find a few mementos, enjoyed the Rick Steves narrative and headed back to ship for dinner.

Bratislava by night

Another great meal, and we decided to skip Bill McCready's preview of coming Santana tours, primarily because we are already signed up for four of them! (Mississippi River, Baltic, Australia, and New Zealand.)

Day 6: Komarom - Esztergom - Visegrad

We selected the shorter AM route that followed the Donauradweg through rural Slovakia. Many of the miles were on paved bike trails placed on river levees. Pancake flat, elevated, and rolling through farmland, you could easily see many fellow Santana cyclists on the route well ahead of us and behind. It reminded me of the Paris-Brest-Paris event, where no route sheet was necessary, just follow the long string of cyclists!

What is that?

We had to stop and check out this piece of farm equipment. It sounded like a huge vacuum cleaner working through this field. The 'vacuum' was attached to an older Ford Explorer that looked like it was covered in pollen! Our guess was that it was harvesting pollen. Man, that would be a terrible job for someone with allergies!

Nice stop in the park

The half-way stop was a convenience store/gas station in a small village. It was overrun with Santana cyclists. Later we would learn that the clerk/owner was very frustrated with the large crowd and growing que to use the WC. We spotted a grocery store across the street, grabbed some snacks and drinks and rode about 100 meters past the chaos to a very pleasant little park just ahead!

Narrow bike path!

The bike path dropped down from the levee and ran just a few meters from the waters edge for the run to the Sturvo and the Hungarian border.

Police station (Mid-century East German Drab)

Looking back at the Slovakian Border

Sturvo is anything but a tourist town. Agricultural and industrial buildings from the Soviet era dominated the landscape. We cross the Slovakian border checkpoint just before the bridge into Esztergom Hungary. Here the border guards were checking pedestrians entering Slovakia. Since we were leaving, they waved us through. We stopped on the bridge for a great shot of the Queen below the Basilica.

Lunch stop in Esztergom

No border checkpoint in Hungary! We made our way across the bridge and to the ship just as it was arriving. It was getting warm and Debby decided to catch up on some reading, so after lunch she stayed on board and yours truly headed out for the afternoon loop, including the Castle loop.

From the scenic viewpoint on the Castle Loop

It was a great ride, but short. With time before the ship would arrive, and twenty minutes to complete the climb, it was so nice I rode it twice!

Medieval drum line!

At 4:30 these guys show up at the dock and we follow them up some steep cobblestones to a small arena.

Procession to the Visigrad Castle


Knights demonstrate weapons skills in Visigrad

Yes, he stood there while a collegue put 2 arrows in the target

These knights are part of a organization that trains and uses medieval weapons as a hobby. It was quite a display of spears, arrows, battle stars, and hand to hand combat!

We returned to the ship for dinner. We sailed during dinner and by the time we arrived in Budapest, it was dark. Timed perfectly, just after dessert, we were invited to the sun deck and our ships tour director provided an outstanding tour of the city sights over the ships PA system. We sailed through town, did a 180 degree turn and found our dock just under the Liberty Bridge!

Day 7: Budapest

Our Zebra Bike Tour Guide

Somehow we got assigned to the fast tour group that would tour both Buda and Pest. Buda is the town on the west bank, and Pest is on the east. Together, they are Budapest! We were all a little nervous about being assigned to the fast group, but when our tour guy arrived on a city cruiser, I knew we would be fine!

Debby, Sue, and Stephen

Unfortunately, all the bridges to the Buda side of the river were closed due to the St. Stephens Day (Hungary national holiday celebrating the founding of the country) festivities and preparations. The fireworks/party was cancelled last year due to Covid, and they were determined to make it the biggest ever! Strings of barges were anchored in the Danube and the bridges were closed since they too would be fireworks platforms.

Victory Plaza

We were treated to several air force fly overs and demonstrations. Our guide worked hard with a colleague to determine which streets were closed and which were clogged with revelers. Yes at 8 am!

Military recruiting display in the park

Trouble in paradise?

Motion activated fountain

This fountain had motion sensors so that when you rolled up to it, a section would turn off, and we could roll in!

Pack 'em up - Before

After!

Our tour wrapped up mid-morning and there was an hour and a half before lunch, just enough time to pack up the bikes. In keeping with bike tour tradition, Debby brought up a frosty cold beer to the sun deck for the bike packing!

Captain's toast before dinner

After lunch we got our Covid rapid test (all guests and crew were negative) then headed out on foot with our dinner mates looking for a bike shop (closed due to the holiday) and to view some of the festivities!

We returned to the ship, cleaned up, and headed to the Panorama Lounge for the Captain's toast and thank you's to the outstanding crew.

Awesome fireworks!

After dinner, we headed up to the sun deck, grabbed some lounge chairs and watched the fireworks. Our guide said they launched 85,000 rockets, and the show lasted an impressive 40 minutes. What a way to end the cruise!

Day 8: Disembark Budapest

The ship arranged a cab to the Budapest Hilton (near the Castle District on the Buda side). We arrived before check-in and left our bags with the concierge. Also, since our Covid test on board would not be valid (more than 3 days prior to reentry) to the US we needed another one. It turned out to be a big deal, but at the end of the day we had gotten our Covid test and checked into our lovely room (they upgraded us to the corner suite since our junior suite was not ready). Our negative results were e mailed to us early the next morning.

This will work!

Post tour - Budapest

We had two full days to explore Budapest and we made the most of it! We covered several walking tours in the Rick Steves guidebook, became experts at using the public transit system, swam in the thermal baths, marveled at the sights, partied like it was St. Stephens Day, and even caught a vigil Mass at the cathedral next door.

Some photo highlights!